Road bike 101

[The Moose1]

I'd consider knowing your cadence essential for several long days at just under 30 kph.  Kinda like driving a manual transmission without a tach and expecting good fuel economy and good power up the hills.  It's possible, but not likely.  You can't guess and expect great results (predictibly) unless you have a method of comparison.
I'm not finding the argument about rubbing wheels productive, and I'm looking for guidlines, not rules.  As always there are exceptions to every guidline, and I don't think we're helping anyone by listing all the exceptions.
Inflating tires is great advice, as is riding within your means.
Any heart-rate related advice is worthless unless you actually know your limits, so lets stay away from that to.
Cleaning all moving parts and keeping them lubricated but dry is important.  (I mean when you lube the chain, put lots on so it gets inside, then wipe all the external fluid off so the dirt doesn't stick.)  Lube the cables and the derailleurs and the brake pivots.
You're right, you can usually ride a dropped chain back on, just shift in the opposite direction and pedal.
Maybe put the cadence guidline at 75-110 depending on your comfort level, (along the flats).  I find that higher cadence in an easier gear up big hills is easier and faster.  (ie.the high end of your comfort zone).
Check your bike before every ride.
Unclip from your pedals before you completely stop.
Smile (at least on the inside).  Loving every pedal stroke makes the ride easier, and your bike faster.
You can lean the bike over a long way in a corner, make sure the inside pedal is up, a pedal can make a great pivot.

[Newt]

G'day Mike,

The only reason I went on about rubbing wheels is that the worse thing you can do (like in many situations) is to panic and overreact, and that you can develope skills that can help you avoid it being such an issue. I completely agree that it's better that it doesn't happen, but if you ride in a pack eventually it will.

Peace
Peter

[Jeff]

Craig and Pete, I hear what your saying but this year we had Damon and Greg who are new to group riding and over lasts few years David Beer and Jeff Walsh who are very experienced riders go down from rubbing tires.  I think the better skill to practice is avoidance.
Craig until the Sherpa puts snow on the peaks we can't call them mountains!

Mike I see your looking for order in this world of no order, people are taught things everyday then choose to ignore them.  We at the store and in our group rides talk about the things you are asking about all the time, cadence, pumping your tires, cleaning your cassette and chain, nutrition, hydration and we could go on!   I think all the things you are talking about are very important to me and you, not so much for others.
Question?
"That all being said, I always thought everyone knew how to do up a quick release so the heaviest point of the rim would still spin slowly to the bottom, but it turns out that's not true either.  I'm just trying to get together some basics that you may think everyone does know, but might not..."
I'm not clear on what you mean?

[The Moose1]

Not clear on what exactly?

[Sandy]

Essential? Really?   

[Jeff]

Sorry, the part about the quick release.

[The Moose1]

Basically, if you flip your bike over and release the lever for the quick release on the front wheel, the heaviest part of the rim will slowly find it's way to the bottom.  Tighten as much as possible until the wheel stops, then slowly back it off 'til its free again.  If you engage the lever and the rim slows or stops before settling by itself, you've tightened the skewer too much.  It's a little tougher to adjust on the back because the wheel only free-wheels one direction, but you get the picture.  Not only will it save a few watts, but your bearings will work better and last longer.

Mike

[Craig]

I think Mike's point about quick release tension doesn't have much effect on newer wheelsets with cartridge bearings. With older cup and cone type( I believe Shimano is still using this), there actually should be a slight amount of play in the hub which should disappear when the quick release is tightened sufficiently.

There will be snow on those peaks sooner than I would like.

[The Moose1]

Nope, it also affects cartridge bearings, try it and you'll see the difference.  All that drag slowing the wheel makes those hills a little bigger, and your equipment last a little less.

[tire guy]

Just tried it on mine,made no difference any more words of wit?

[king]

I think you guys all have to much time on your hands! Maybe you should be out riding instead of sitting in front of the computer. Yes I was! It's 9.45 and I just finished supper thats been waiting for me since 5.00.

[tire guy]

After knowing you for 25 years Bob I never thought I would udder these words...........your right ....   read that sentence back half a dozen times still sounds wrong for some reason.

[The Moose1]

Makes a difference on your old wheels, and they're cartridge style....

[tire guy]

Ooh so does that mean that all rules (or order) does not apply to all things? Cool concept huh.To be fair there is a big difference in the equipment I have now to the wheel I sold you.

[king]

Den: Your post makes a great wallpaper on my comp! I will let you know when it's up on you tube. :)